Memories Of Egypt

"The thing about travelling as unaccompanied pre-teens is that you get all the importance. The good thing about travelling by Egypt Air is that between India and Nigeria, you have a two day halt in Cairo. I wasn't surprised to know, albeit much later, that a lot of people travelled that route only because you got 48 hours to soak in one of the oldest civilizations of mankind."

Marhaban to Cairo

When my brother and I were packed off on Egypt Air, we had no idea what was in store for us. Arriving at an unearthly hour in Cairo, the two of us were the last in the line of transit passengers waiting to get booked into the airport hotel. By the time the two of us got to the counter, the goddess of transit booking exclaimed that they were completely booked. Our eyes that were pretty much shut tight up until that moment snapped open! Well, now what do we do. One look at our tired but sweet faces must have done it. In the next minute,we were whisked away to the 7-star Movenpick hotel and tucked into heavenly white sheets. Marhaban to Cairo! At some point between the whisking and the tucking, the attendant must have mentioned that we needed to be ready at 7:00 a.m. to start the tour-de-Cairo but needless to say, that was conveniently forgotten. 7:00 a.m. came and blissfully went, only for us to wake up at 10:00 a.m. to find out that we had been blissfully forgotten! So much for heavenly white sheets, eh!

At 12:00 p.m., there is a knock on our door. All readied and fed by then, I jumped up to open. A hotel attendant asked us to get down to the lobby as there was someone waiting for us. Waiting in the lobby was an airline attendant and a tour guide. Pleasantly astounded, our feet gleefully moved towards a 35 seater bus waiting outside just for the two of us! And thus, began the grand tour-de-Cairo.

Pyramids of the Pharaohs

You study it in history class but seeing it is something else altogether. While arriving at the majestic pyramids with the sun right above your head may not be the best idea, these unbelievably grand structures are a sight to behold. The pyramids of Giza are built on a plateau. The Great Pyramid of Khufu is the largest pyramid ever built at 147 meters by Pharaoh Khufu, a ruler of the 4th dynasty. Next to that is Khufu’s son Pharaoh Khafre’s pyramid at 144 meters and the third is the Pyramid of Pharaoh Menkaure at 65 metres. At the entrance of the Great Pyramid of Khufu was a staircase made of wooden planks nailed together. There was two way traffic making its way either up or down. As we began to descend into the pyramid, we realised what a mystery it was inside. Burial chambers, narrow hallways, sealed air shafts, storage chambers; all created a maze of sorts. The Egyptians truly took death or rather life after death very seriously and these pyramids are testimony to that ideology. At the necropolis of Khafru’s pyramid is the Great Sphinx. Truly great, the Sphinx, as our guide told us, portrays the pharaoh as a human headed lion with the head dress of the pharaohs. The stories regarding the missing nose are rife. Some say that Napoleon’s troops blew off the nose in the 18th century while historians from the 15th century claim that it disappeared in their time.

From Papyrus to Paper

After the pyramids, education on how paper was first made awaited us at a papyrus store. We were taken through the entire process of how paper is made from the papyrus plant. The green skin on the stalk of the papyrus plant is removed, cut into long strips, pounded and soaked in water for three days until stretchy. These strips are then cut horizontally and vertically and laid on top of each other. This is what gives papyrus paper the criss-cross pattern. Covered by a cotton sheet, all strips are pressed together to form a single sheet of papyrus paper. We walked out armed with a bookmark each having our names written in hieroglyph. Next on our special agenda was one of the largest perfume galleries in Cairo where we were shown how perfumes or attar is made, bottled, named and sold. Of course, here too we walked out with a tester each of any scent we fancied!

Cruisin’ on the River Nile

Yet unable to believe how lucky we got, we thought this was it. But upon being dropped off at the hotel, we were told loud and clear that at 8:00 p.m., we will be picked up again. Showered and readied, we waited patiently wondering what was to come. I’ll tell you what was to come – an unbelievable once-in-a-lifetime(unless you fly this route often) cruise on river Nile. Dressed in shorts and a t-shirt, we entered only to realise that this was a tie and gown affair. More so, it was a sit down dinner with a seven course meal. But who cares when you have a belly dancer who takes away all the attention with moves to kill! And who cares when you have a man dressed as a horse galloping around. And who cares when you have seven different types of dessert on board. And who cares when you are cruising on the longest river in the world…

-Shruti Kothari, Director, Bespoken Words

A History Forgotten Is A Future Lost

"If someone had told me that any country in Africa resembled Europe or;America, I would have laughed it off. Not because it can’t (so many of;them are on their way to) but because it shouldn’t. This is Africa. The indomitable Sahara, the unbelievable safari, the eons of history and veritably, the cradle of civilization."

Early last year, when I realised I had time and joblessness on my side, I decided that I would finally take;the long overdue trip to Nigeria — my original desh. And 2 months later, when I landed at the OR Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, South Africa; I knew I was in for a surprise.

Jo’ Burg-ing our way

South Africa has heartbreaking history and it is palpable in every corner, every eye that you look into and on every street. Jo’burg or Jozi as Johannesburg is popularly known is the big throbbing heart of South Africa.As soon as we checked in, I was raring to go. A nice nip in the air, I set out to get to know this city that has been the stage on which the epic of this spectacular country has been played out. Busy streets, packed restaurants, construction in full swing to welcome the FIFA World Cup 2010, Jo’burg is a fascinating city. A multitude of restaurants to eat at, malls, China towns, parks, skyscrapers, Jozi tosses up a lot for the African enthusiast. While one night we were clinking our glasses to ice cold South African wine, the next we were relishing an array of South African titbits; samosas, boerewors and bobotie spring rolls. Our host told us that the entire country was gearing up for the World Cup. The government was encouraging citizens to welcome visitors with characteristic South African hospitality; welcome them into your homes with some nice South African curry bunny!

History was written here

Our next stop was Soweto, southwest of Johannesburg. These South Western Townships, much like suburbia, had its pockets of poor localities and the not so poor ones. Founded in the early 1900s, Soweto was for the black African gold labourers. Post World War II, this township grew significantly. An interesting fact about Soweto is that until the 1930s, Soweto’s population was nearly all male. Workers were not allowed to bring their wives. Finally, we reached the Mandela House. The legacy that is Nelson Mandela resided in this house that was made completely out of red bricks. The history, the heritage and the struggle was vivid in the house. I would like to quote Nelson Mandela from The Long Walk to Freedom since I had read it just before I went to South Africa. It sums up what the Mandela House stood for. Here goes - The house itself was identical to hundreds of others built on postage-stamp-size plots on dirt roads. It had the same standard tin roof, the same cement floor, a narrow kitchen, and a bucket toilet at the back. Although there were street lamps outside, we used paraffin lamps as the homes were not yet electrified. The bedroom was so small that a double bed took up almost the entire floor space. It was the opposite of grand, but it was my first true home of my own and I was mightily proud. A man is not a man until he has a house of his own.That night I returned with Winnie to No. 8115 in Orlando West. It was only then that I knew in my heart I had left prison. For me No. 8115 was the centre point of my world, the place marked with an X in my mental geography.’

Are you black or white?

While the scars of 20th century South Africa are apparent in Johannesburg, it is obvious that the healing has begun. What hit me instantly were the stark inequalities but the amazing confidence in the South Africans. The trip to the Apartheid Museum was an eye opener as was visiting Hector Pieterson’s museum. At the entrance of the Apartheid Museum, we were given cards stating ‘Non-white’ or ‘White’. Walking around the museum, one feels like they are thrown back into the 70s and 80s. Police bullets, teargas canisters, the marches, scores of school children, metal cafes, newspaper snippets, film footage; all tell you a traumatic story of what this nation has endured.

South African has come a long way from those days. The young are singing and dancing to groovy marabi beats and KFC is round the corner. The old are telling stories of a time that is gone and the corporates are banking their millions on the impending World Cup. South Africa truly has come a long way. Ask an American about his/her heritage and they will say they are Irish, Swedish, German, Italian, Korean etc. Ask a South African, black or white notwithstanding, and they will simply state – Africa. And that is the difference.

-Shruti Kothari, Director, Bespoken Words