"If someone had told me that any country in Africa resembled Europe or;America, I would have laughed it off. Not because it can’t (so many of;them are on their way to) but because it shouldn’t. This is Africa. The indomitable Sahara, the unbelievable safari, the eons of history and veritably, the cradle of civilization."
Early last year, when I realised I had time and joblessness on my side, I decided that I would finally take;the long overdue trip to Nigeria — my original desh. And 2 months later, when I landed at the OR Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, South Africa; I knew I was in for a surprise.
Jo’ Burg-ing our way
South Africa has heartbreaking history and it is palpable in every corner, every eye that you look into and on every street. Jo’burg or Jozi as Johannesburg is popularly known is the big throbbing heart of South Africa.As soon as we checked in, I was raring to go. A nice nip in the air, I set out to get to know this city that has been the stage on which the epic of this spectacular country has been played out. Busy streets, packed restaurants, construction in full swing to welcome the FIFA World Cup 2010, Jo’burg is a fascinating city. A multitude of restaurants to eat at, malls, China towns, parks, skyscrapers, Jozi tosses up a lot for the African enthusiast. While one night we were clinking our glasses to ice cold South African wine, the next we were relishing an array of South African titbits; samosas, boerewors and bobotie spring rolls. Our host told us that the entire country was gearing up for the World Cup. The government was encouraging citizens to welcome visitors with characteristic South African hospitality; welcome them into your homes with some nice South African curry bunny!
History was written here
Our next stop was Soweto, southwest of Johannesburg. These South Western Townships, much like suburbia, had its pockets of poor localities and the not so poor ones. Founded in the early 1900s, Soweto was for the black African gold labourers. Post World War II, this township grew significantly. An interesting fact about Soweto is that until the 1930s, Soweto’s population was nearly all male. Workers were not allowed to bring their wives. Finally, we reached the Mandela House. The legacy that is Nelson Mandela resided in this house that was made completely out of red bricks. The history, the heritage and the struggle was vivid in the house. I would like to quote Nelson Mandela from The Long Walk to Freedom since I had read it just before I went to South Africa. It sums up what the Mandela House stood for. Here goes - The house itself was identical to hundreds of others built on postage-stamp-size plots on dirt roads. It had the same standard tin roof, the same cement floor, a narrow kitchen, and a bucket toilet at the back. Although there were street lamps outside, we used paraffin lamps as the homes were not yet electrified. The bedroom was so small that a double bed took up almost the entire floor space. It was the opposite of grand, but it was my first true home of my own and I was mightily proud. A man is not a man until he has a house of his own.That night I returned with Winnie to No. 8115 in Orlando West. It was only then that I knew in my heart I had left prison. For me No. 8115 was the centre point of my world, the place marked with an X in my mental geography.’
Are you black or white?
While the scars of 20th century South Africa are apparent in Johannesburg, it is obvious that the healing has begun. What hit me instantly were the stark inequalities but the amazing confidence in the South Africans. The trip to the Apartheid Museum was an eye opener as was visiting Hector Pieterson’s museum. At the entrance of the Apartheid Museum, we were given cards stating ‘Non-white’ or ‘White’. Walking around the museum, one feels like they are thrown back into the 70s and 80s. Police bullets, teargas canisters, the marches, scores of school children, metal cafes, newspaper snippets, film footage; all tell you a traumatic story of what this nation has endured.
South African has come a long way from those days. The young are singing and dancing to groovy marabi beats and KFC is round the corner. The old are telling stories of a time that is gone and the corporates are banking their millions on the impending World Cup. South Africa truly has come a long way. Ask an American about his/her heritage and they will say they are Irish, Swedish, German, Italian, Korean etc. Ask a South African, black or white notwithstanding, and they will simply state – Africa. And that is the difference.
-Shruti Kothari, Director, Bespoken Words
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